World-renowned restaurant Noma is to close, citing an ‘unsustainable’ model

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Noma, the three-Michelin-starred Copenhagen restaurant named “World’s Best Restaurant” for its highly influential cuisine, will close in 2024.

Chef and founder René Redzepi said the intense labor required to produce the restaurant’s signature hyperlocal and painstakingly crafted dishes — much of which fell to interns and low-wage workers — was no longer sustainable. “Financially and emotionally, as a boss and as a human being, it just doesn’t work.” he told the New York TimesIt first announced the planned closure.

The restaurant will eventually become a “giant lab” that will host pop-ups and/or be open temporarily for a season, as well as create products for the company’s e-commerce arm. “Serving guests will still be a part of who we are, but being a restaurateur no longer defines us,” it read A note to customers The restaurant’s website touts the new avatar as Noma 3.0. “Instead, most of our time will be spent exploring new projects and developing more ideas and products.”

Sea snail broth and kelp ice cream: The new Noma tastes like the future

Founded in 2003, Noma was initially dismissed by some critics as a “blobber restaurant” for its reliance on Nordic ingredients, but it quickly gained acclaim, hailed as a spare but exciting creator of “new Nordic” cuisine. In the past 11 years it has been named the world’s best restaurant five times and awarded a third Michelin star – a province where only a handful of restaurants worldwide have been awarded. In 2021. The price tag is at least $500 for those who get a quick finger to book.

Dining there is all about the experience, including reindeer and food Forage greens. The restaurant is set amidst wild gardens and greenhouses with rooms dedicated to barbeque and fermentation. The 40-seat dining room might be decorated with fish skeletons or dried seaweed; A multicourse meal ends with a menu offering.

Over the years, it has evolved many times. Gone Dark in 2015 for a five-week pop-up in Tokyo, and again a year later in Sydney and Tulum, Mexico. It is Reopened in 2018 In Copenhagen, The Washington Post’s restaurant critic Tom Sietsema declared the new iteration “a rare opportunity to hang out with a true visionary.”

“It soon becomes clear that we are eating the future, and Redzepi’s thought process is so influential that his dishes are being copied by chefs around the world at the speed of the Internet,” Sietsema wrote.

Tom Sietsema’s Fall Food Guide

During the pandemic, it closed and reopened temporarily as a place for burgers and wine served at picnic tables.

Redzepi and his operations have come under scrutiny, including their reliance on unpaid “Stagiaires” (Noma reportedly began paying them in October). The chef himself admitted he was in a 2015 article Bully of a boss Who yelled and “pushed people,” then He said that he was treated To deal with his anger.

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